A technical team from the premium Italian fashion label Prada traveled to Kolhapur, Maharashtra, to learn about the workmanship of the renowned Kolhapuri chappals. Weeks prior to this visit, Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection at Milan Fashion Week featured leather shoes that remarkably resembled these classic Indian flat chappals. The footwear, which was allegedly priced at approximately Rs 1 lakh, prompted the firm to take action after being accused of cultural insensitivity and design appropriation.
The Prada delegation spent two full days in Kolhapur, from July 15 to 16, immersing themselves in the local footwear industry. They toured multiple factory units, artisan clusters, and manufacturing facilities, gaining a close-up view of how Kolhapuri chappals are crafted. During the visit, the team purchased seven pairs of ‘Moje Puda Kapshi’ Kolhapuri chappals—traditional handmade sandals symbolic of the region’s rich heritage.
Leading the delegation were Paolo Tiveron, Director of Men’s Technical and Production Department for Prada’s Footwear Division, and Daniele Contu, Pattern Making Manager, along with external consultants Andrea and Roberto Pollastrelli. Their engagement went beyond mere observation—they interacted extensively with local artisans, production unit owners, and cooperative officials to understand the techniques, materials, and challenges involved in making these iconic sandals.
Deep Dive into Kolhapuri Craftsmanship and Manufacturing Processes:
Kolhapuri chappals represent an age-old craft famously rooted in handmade techniques and traditional leatherwork. The Prada team’s exploration revealed that about 80% of the chappal-making process involves handcrafting, with only 10-20% aided by machines, emphasizing the artisanal nature of the product. This hands-on approach is carried throughout the stages—from sourcing specially tanned leather to shaping, stitching, and finishing the final footwear.
During their visits, the team spent time with key local figures such as Sunil Lokare and Rohit Gavali, both respected producers, and engaged with women artisans involved in the craft in the Kagal region. The delegation also toured the facilities of the Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation Limited (LIDCOM), a major hub for Kolhapuri footwear production. They examined the tools, design variations, and fabricating methods unique to this craft.
One shopkeeper also showed the delegation popular regional leather goods like the “conductor’s bag,” highlighting other handmade leather products associated with Kolhapur’s tanneries and craft industry. The Prada team took extensive notes, photographs, and samples to relay back to their corporate offices, helping them develop a deeper appreciation and technical understanding of local traditions.
Towards Collaboration and Global Recognition for Kolhapuri Craft:
Prasad Bhopal Shate, Director of the Kolhapur Footwear Association, expressed optimism about the visit, describing it as a promising start to potential collaboration. He noted that Prada’s interest extends beyond just the chappals, with discussions also touching upon incorporating handmade silverware and other crafts from the region into upcoming product lines. The arrival of a global luxury brand like Prada represents a valuable opportunity to put Kolhapuri craftsmanship onto a global platform.
The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA) is expected to partner with Prada in documenting the footwear styles and materials, possibly through a dedicated film or report. Such efforts could help solidify the cultural heritage of Kolhapuri chappals, which already hold a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, by showcasing their production to high-end global markets.
Shate remarked that this collaboration could elevate India’s regional artisans, who have often struggled to gain international visibility despite rich traditions. The Prada delegation reportedly showed great respect for the handmade process and indicated the possibility of bulk orders and formal partnerships after further review.
What This Means for Kolhapur Artisans and Indian Craftsmanship:
The visit by Prada’s team marks a major milestone for Kolhapur’s footwear community, signaling recognition from one of the top luxury fashion houses in the world. It also suggests an evolving dialogue between Indian artisans and global designers, moving towards more respectful sourcing and collaboration rather than cultural appropriation or uncredited imitation.
Local manufacturers like the family-run Pooja Footwear Kolhapur, which has been operational for over 70 years, welcomed the interest shown by Prada. The technical team’s intensive seven-hour presence at their unit is being taken as a serious sign of commitment beyond mere publicity.
Although skepticism remains among Indian craft enthusiasts about corporate intentions, the current trajectory points to increased opportunities for local producers to enter formal agreements, scale production, and receive better compensation for their skills. Additionally, initiatives like the proposed “Made in India” limited edition collections inspired by Kolhapuri designs could ensure authenticity and fairness in global marketing.
Prada’s recent initiatives in Kolhapur show how international fashion corporations are becoming more conscious of the value of recognizing and working with indigenous craftspeople. This occasion might establish a standard for how high-end companies work with India’s various and rich crafts to innovate for a worldwide market while preserving cultural heritage.
